HOW TO GROW RAMBUTAN FROM SEEDS

HOW   TO  GROW  RAMBUTAN  FROM   SEEDS

Rambutan is an exotic fruit with a hairy exterior and flavorful taste. It is full of antioxidants, iron, vitamin C, copper, and anti-cancer properties. The juicy fruit has a sweet, floral flavor and features a red or yellow color. It is often hard to find at markets, so many rambutan devotees grow their own fruit trees. Each fruit holds a single seed, and the trees thrive in semi-tropical environments or greenhouses. Gardeners who wish to grow rambutan from seed should review some important planting and care tips.

Germination and Seedling Care

Germinating rambutan seeds and properly caring for the seedlings give the plant a healthy start. Choose a fertile growing medium, such as topsoil mixed with compost or manure. The added nutrients help speed up germination and seedling growth. Plant the seed horizontally with the flat side facing down. This helps the plant grow straight and establish a strong root system. Keep the plant in a sunny location and never let the soil dry out. Germination takes nine to 25 days. When seedlings reach about 12 inches, they are ready to transplant to a yard or a greenhouse.

Growing Requirements

Rambutans require special care and growing conditions. Gardeners need to provide care for the tree to grow and survive. The rewards are an abundance of healthy fruit and a beautiful addition to the landscape.

Climate and Soil Type

Rambutan trees thrive in climates with high humidity and rainfall. It is necessary to replicate this environment to grow healthy trees. The temperature of the growing area needs to stay between 68 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Freezing temperatures are detrimental to these plants. Rambutans prefer a well-drained, loamy soil with a pH range of 5.5 to 6.5.

Culture

Plant rambutan trees at least 33 feet apart. The roots spread considerably and need plenty of room to grow. If the trees are too close together, they may not produce a high yield of fruit. After a fruit harvest, apply 2.2 pounds of ammonium sulfate and 2.2 pounds of a 12-24-12 fertilizer per tree to the soil. Apply the same amount of ammonium sulfate only to the soil after the rain system. This replaces nutrients lost from heavy rain and soil drainage. Shelter the trees from strong winds that can damage flowers or fruits.

Yield and Harvest

It takes about five years for the first rambutan fruit to appear. Limbs on this tree produce fruit after one year also bear fruit the next. However, yield may vary from year to year. Young trees produce fruit at random times from December to August, but mature trees bear an abundance of fruit once a year. The flowers have a sweet fragrance and attract bugs that help with pollination. Harvest rambutan fruit two to three weeks after it begins to change color. The best time to harvest is in the morning, and using picking poles for tall branches is advised.

Pests and Diseases

Pests that target rambutan trees include leaf eating grubs, leaf eating beetles, fruit spotting bugs, ants, mealy bugs, and scales. Choose an organic pesticide to get rid of pests. Chemical pesticides may contaminate growing fruit. Fungal infections and fruit or stem rots are common diseases that plague the rambutan tree. Look for signs of disease regularly to avoid losing the plant.

Mulch

Spread mulch, such as aged bagasse or spoilt hay, around the base of the rambutan tree. This helps control weeds pests, conserves water, increases humidity, adds nutrients, and insulates surface roots. Mulch is especially beneficial to young trees that are establishing a root system and fruiting periods. Replenish the layer of mulch two or three times a year or as needed. Spread layers 3 to 5 inches thick and a few yards outward from the tree.

HOW TO GROW ONIONS FROM SEEDS

HOW   TO   GROW  ONIONS   FROM   SEEDS

Onion seed starting is easy. Onions grow best in fertile, well-draining soil. This should also be worked with organic matter, such as compost. Onion seeds can be planted directly in the garden bed.

However, when growing onion seed, some people prefer to start them indoors. This can be done about late October to mid November.

The best time for planting onion seeds outdoors is in spring, as soon as the soil can be worked, usually around March or April. Place them about an inch deep in the soil and approximately half an inch or more apart. If planting rows, space them at least one and half to two feet apart.

Onion Seeds Germinating

When it comes to onion seeds germinating, temperature plays an active role. While typically germination occurs within 7-10 days, soil temperature affects this process. For instance, the cooler the soil temperature, the longer it will take for onion seeds to germinate – up to two weeks. Warm soil temperatures, on the other hand, can trigger onion seed germination in as little as four days.

Growing Onion Seed Plants

Once seedlings have sufficient leaf growth, thin them down to around 3-4 inches apart. Transplant onion seedlings that were started indoors about 4-6 weeks before the last expected frost or freeze date, provided the ground is not frozen.

Onion plants have shallow roots and require frequent irrigation throughout the growing season. However, once the tops begin to lay over, usually by late summer, watering should be stopped. At this point, onions can be lifted.

Growing onion seed plants is an easy, inexpensive way to keep an unlimited amount of onions on hand just when you need them.

HOW TO GROW MANGOSTEEN FROM SEED

HOW  TO  GROW  MANGOSTEEN FROM  SEED

Mangosteen, a delicious tropical fruit, is widely grown in Mindanao and is abundant during the months of July to September. It is one of the most praised of tropical fruits because of its amazing health benefits.

Mangosteen is eaten fresh. The white, juice pulp around the seeds can be made into preserves after boiling in brown sugar. It is reach in protein, minerals and carbohydrates. Mangosteen peeling, when dried and boiled, is a very effective cure to diarrhea and dysentery.

Soil and climate requirement. A warm, humid environment is ideal for growing mangosteen. Rainfall should be well-distributed throughout the year, unless sufficient irrigation is available. The soil should be rich in organic matter, porous, deep, moist and well-drained. Ideal type of soil is heavy clay with sand and silt.

Mangosteen can thrive at elevations of up to 500 meters above the sea level.

Planting. Mangosteen seeds can be planted whole or cut into pieces. They are first sown in seedboxes, seed plots or pots, bamboo tubes, or plastic bags. Keep them under partial shade for about two weeks and water four times a week. transplant after two years when plants are about 30 cm tall.

In the field, plant them at the distance of 7 meters in rows and 9 meters between rows. Place the seedling in holes 15 cm deep.

Cultivation. Weed at a distance of one meter around the plants. Apply nitrate or other nitrogenous fertilizer for longer periods of fruiting. Composts may also be broadcast to enrich the soil with humus.

Common intercrops with mangosteen are peanut and other legumes, abaca, banana , marang and lanzones trees. Dapdap and durian trees also serve as partial shades.

Insect and disease control. Control pests with Methyl Parathion and Diazinon at the rate of 2 1/2 tablespoon per five gallons of water. For disease, use Manzate and Dithane Z-78.

Harvest. Mangosteen bear fruit after 10 to 15 years. Pick the fruits together with the peduncle or main stalk, then bind together in elongated cluster of 15 pieces.

Medicinal use of Mangosteen. For treatment of diarrhea, prepare 4 teaspoon of chop mangosteen peeling and boil with two glasses of water for 15 minutes. For children from 7 to 12 years, use two teaspoon of chopped mangosteen peelings; for children from 2 to 6 years, use one teaspoon. Cool the mixture and strain. Divide it in four parts and drink one part every 2 or 3 hours.

HOW TO GROW NASTURTIUM FROM SEEDS

HOW  TO  GROW NASTURTIUM FROM  SEEDS

Quick-growing summer annuals can add nearly instant color to your garden beds and planters. Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum spp.) produce yellow, orange and red flowers, usually on the same plant. These annual flowers grow readily from large seeds, so you can plant plenty of them with minimal effort and cost. Encourage good sprouting by preparing and planting the seeds correctly.

Planting Time

Nasturtiums grow during the warm, frost-free spring, summer and fall season. Seeds can take up to two weeks to sprout, although they often germinate within seven days if prepared properly before planting. Planting time depends on your climate and whether you start the seeds indoors or outside. Start the seeds indoors about four to six weeks before the last expected spring frost date in your area so the young seedlings are ready to transplant outdoors in spring. If you sow directly in the garden, wait until after the last frost so the tender seedlings aren't killed by cold.

Seed Preparation

The hard, dry seed coating on large nasturtium seeds can slow germination because it's difficult for water to soak into the seed and force it from dormancy. Nicking the seed coat and soaking it in water speeds germination. To nick the seed, scrape one side of it with a metal file until the lighter interior seed coat becomes visible. Soak it in a bowl of warm tap water overnight. The seed absorbs the water through the nicked portion and usually swells to up to twice its previous size. Nicked and soaked seeds require immediate planting; otherwise, they may rot or die.

Indoor Sprouting

A standard sterile potting mix works well for starting nasturtium seeds indoors. Use individual 2- to 3-inch-diameter seedling pots or a larger seedling tray. Pots and trays must have drainage holes so the excess water can drain out. Water the soil before you plant so it's moist. Sow a single seed per pot, or plant the seeds 2 inches apart in rows set 2 inches apart in a tray. Large nasturtium seeds require deep planting, so plant the seeds 1/2- to 1-inch deep in the pots. Keeping the soil temperature near 70 degrees Fahrenheit and maintaining even moisture encourages quick germination. The seedlings won't require light until after they sprout.

Outdoor Sprouting

It's possible to sow nasturtium seeds directly in the garden bed if you prepare the soil first. Nasturtiums have few soil needs. Choose a well-drained bed that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily and work up to 2 inches of compost into it first to improve drainage and quality. Once prepared, plant the seeds 1/2- to 1-inch deep and space them 3 inches apart. The soil will require watering so the top 6 inches remains moist. Once the nasturtiums sprout, thin the plants so they have 8 to 10 inches of space on all sides.

HOW TO GROW SWEET PEA FROM SEEDS

HOW  TO  GROW  SWEET  PEA   FROM  SEEDS

Sweet Peas are a cottage garden classic producing beautiful blooms with the most gorgeous scent. You can train them onto a plant support to create a really impressive column of fragrant, summer colour, and they make excellent cut flowers.

Annual Sweet Peas are often beautifully fragrant but last only one season, while Everlasting Sweet Peas are herbaceous perennials returning year after year but with less fragrance than their annual cousins.

How to sow sweet pea seeds

Growing sweet peas couldn’t be easier. You can sow them into small pots of compost in autumn and overwinter the young plants in a cold frame or cool greenhouse. Or, you can wait until spring and start planting your sweet peas in pots, or sow directly into the ground.

Before you sow them you can soak your sweet pea seeds in tepid water to rehydrate them. It helps them get off to a quicker start but it isn’t essential as they will still germinate well in moist compost. If you soak them overnight you will notice that they swell up and turn a lovely chestnut colour. Use a good quality compost and sow several sweet pea seeds to a pot.

Sow them about 1cm deep, cover the seed with compost and water them well. If sowing Sweet Pea seed seems like too much effort you could always buy sweet pea plug plants. Place them in a bright position and when the shoots appear keep an eye out for slugs as they love young sweet pea shoots.

How to grow sweet pea plants

Pinching out Sweet Pea Shoots

As the seedlings grow they will start to become tall and leggy. You can encourage them to produce side shoots by pinching out the tips of the sweet peas. Simply nip off the top of the stem just above a set of leaves. This will make each plant much bushier and more robust. And the more shoots there are, the more flowers will be produced!

Transplanting Sweet Pea Plants

Once your sweet peas are growing well and the main risk of frost has passed, you can pop them outside to acclimatise them to outdoor conditions for a week or so before planting them out.

Plant your sweet peas out in a bright sunny spot in the garden that is easily accessible so that you can get to the plants to pick the flowers. Sweet peas love a rich, moist soil so dig a couple of buckets of compost into the planting area beforehand to enrich the soil and hold the moisture during dry weather. Alternatively you can plant sweet peas out in large containers on the patio. Sweet peas are climbers and will need a suitable support to grow up. Put your plant support frame into position before you start planting sweet peas. Turn each pot out and gently separate the plants. You can plant 2 or 3 seedlings in each planting hole for a nice, full display. Aim to plant each group about 15cm apart.

Tying in Sweet Pea Stems

Sweet peas climb by twining their tendrils around the sweet pea support frame, but it is helpful to guide them onto the support using sweet pea support rings.

Throughout the season you will need to keep them well watered, as dry soil will make them go to seed quicker. Make sure that you remove any faded sweet pea flowers or seedpods as soon as possible to encourage more blooms to be produced.

Don’t forget that the more that you cut, the more sweet peas flowers you will get so you can enjoy that fabulous sweet pea perfume in your home too.

Pruning Sweet Pea Plants

Once your sweet pea plants are in full flower you should regularly dead-head them to encourage more flowers to develop. Simply snip off any faded blooms or seed pods when you see them.

If you love having fresh cut flowers in your home, then sweet peas are the plants for you! They are ideal for cutting as the more blooms you cut the more they grow.

HOW TO GROWING CASSIA FISTULA FROM SEEDS

HOW   TO  GROWING  CASSIA  FISTULA  FROM  SEEDS

Cassia fistula, or the golden shower tree, creates a dramatic display of color in early summer with its brilliant yellow, garlandlike flower clusters. It thrives within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9b through 12, where it is sometimes planted as an ornamental shade tree. Golden shower tree grows best from seeds, which can be gathered directly from a mature tree. They sprout rapidly but must be thoroughly cleaned and processed before sowing to aid germination.

Seed Development

Golden shower trees bloom most spectacularly in early summer, although they bloom sporadically from late spring until early autumn in warm climates. The 8- to 20-inch-long flower clusters persist for several weeks before fading away and ripening into seedpods. Each seedpod contains between 25 and 100 seeds and can reach a length of up to 24 inches with a 1-inch diameter. The pod has fully ripened when it takes on a dark brown or blackish color and rattles when shaken. Overripe pods split open and drop their seeds, rendering them unsuitable for propagation.

Seed Description and Toxicity

Each golden shower tree seed is 1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter with a flattened, teardrop shape and a smooth, chestnut brown seed coat. A pulpy, dark brown substance holds the seeds in place within the pod. It hardens as the pods age, eventually cementing the seeds in place and impeding their removal. Both the pulp and the seeds are mildly toxic, causing diarrhea, vomiting and gastrointestinal distress when consumed. The symptoms are short-lived and rarely serious, but the seeds must nonetheless be kept away from children and pets to prevent illness.

Seed Collection and Preparation

Golden shower tree seeds will germinate year-round, although they perform best in spring and summer when the days are long and bright. The seeds must be gathered from intact, unblemished pods with no obvious signs of insect damage. Put on gloves, split open the pods and extract the seeds. Thoroughly wash them in warm water to remove the black, pulpy material. The tough seed coat must be scarified to allow for germination. Rub the edge of each seed with a fine rasp to create a weak spot in the seed coat, but don't rub a hole in the seed coat because the seed will die. Soak the seeds in cold water for 24 hours before sowing them.

Seed Germination

Little maintenance or hands-on care is required when germinating golden shower tree seeds, although they need moisture and warmth to perform well. The seedlings put on growth quickly, so each should be sown in its own pot. Use gallon-sized nursery containers with drainage holes at the base and fill them with lightweight, sterile seed-starting medium. Sow the seeds at a depth of 1 inch and then place the containers in a warm, bright location where nighttime temperatures stay above 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The first golden shower tree seedling will emerge in one to four weeks if the top 2 inches of medium is kept moderately moist during the germination process.

HOW TO GROWING PHLOX FROM SEEDS

HOW   TO   GROWING  PHLOX   FROM  SEEDS

If  your West Coast garden could use some color, one of the many phlox plant varieties may do the trick. Phlox species come in two varieties — tall-growing and creeping. The tall-growing species is ideal as a background in the garden, while the creeping variety can be grown to form a colorful carpet. The plants produce star-shaped flowers that come in such colors as white, blue, red and purple, with some species producing bicolored flowers. If you prefer to start your plants early, starting them indoors is ideal.

1.Begin the phlox seed-starting process approximately eight weeks before the last frost date in your area.

2.Select a container to start your seeds. Choose a seed-raising tray with drainage holes in the bottom. If you are using empty yogurt cups or the bottom part of an empty milk carton, manually make holes in the bottom.

3.Wash your seed-raising container. Add 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water and mix the liquids together. Soak the container in the mixture for five minutes and set it aside to air-dry.

4.Fill the container with moist potting soil to within 3/4 inch of the top. Lightly press down on the soil with your fingers so it sits firmly in the container.

5.Sow the seeds. Place the seeds on the soil with a 1-inch distance between them. Sprinkle soil over the seeds. Aim for a planting depth of 1/8 inch.

6.Moisten the top layer of soil with warm water. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil — this will keep the seeds intact and won't rinse them away.

7.Cover the container with a clear plastic bag to help the soil retain moisture. Seal the bag with an elastic band. Keep the plastic approximately 1 inch above the soil surface. Stick a plant name tag in the soil to help hold the plastic up.

8.Place the container in a dark, warm area of the house. Phlox seeds need a temperature of 65 F to germinate. Use a space heater for additional heat, or place a heating pad under the seed-raising container.

9.Wait for the seeds to germinate. This can take anywhere from five to 10 days. Check the soil moisture regularly throughout the germinating period. Aim to keep the soil moist at all times.

10.Relocate the container to a bright area of the house. Remove the plastic from the container once the seeds start germinating. Place the container in a sunny window to expose the seedlings to at least 12 hours of light. Continue moistening the soil as needed.

HOW TO GROW BANANA FROM SEEDS

HOW  TO  GROW  BANANA  FROM  SEEDS

Overview

Banana plants (Musa species) are tropical fruit-producing trees that love heat. Although bananas are typically propagated via rhizomes (fleshy underground roots) with careful preparation you can start bananas from seed. Instrumental to success in germinating banana seeds is to ensure that you begin with fresh banana seeds, sterilized growing medium, and a sterilized container in which to hold the banana seeds while they germinate.

Germinating Banana Seeds

Step 1

Place the banana seeds into a bowl of water and allow them to soak for 48 hours. Change the water once a day. If there is any banana pulp left on the seeds, scrub them off until you are sure they are clean.

Step 2

Rinse the lidded plastic container in a solution of 1 part bleach mixed with 10 parts water for approximately two to three minutes. Rinse the lidded plastic container in hot water to remove any residue and turn it upside down on a paper towel to dry.

Step 3

Sterilize the banana seeds prior to planting. To do this, pour in 1 tsp. of household bleach into 1 cup of tap water. Drop the banana seeds into the bleach and water solution and let them soak for two to three minutes.

Step 4

Remove the banana seeds from the bleach and water solution and place them into wire basket or colander. Rinse them with cool water until you are sure they are well rinsed off.

Step 5

Place sterilized seed-starting compost into the lidded plastic container until it's 3/4 full. Mist it with water until it is very well moistened. The idea is to have it moist to the touch, but not soggy wet.

Step 6

Set the banana seeds on the surface of the soil in the lidded plastic container about 1/2 inch apart from each other. Sprinkle approximately 1/8 inch of the compost over the banana seeds.

Step 7

Set the lid on the container. Transfer the container to a location in your home that will remain consistently between 70 and 80 degrees F. A good place to set the container is on top of a hot water heater. Germination of banana seeds at the above temperature range typically begins in two to three weeks. Once you see banana seedlings sprout, immediately pot them up.

Planting Banana Seedlings

Step 1

Fill up 4-inch wide plastic pots with sterilized potting mix. Pack the growing medium down until it is compressed.

Step 2

Use a teaspoon to dig out a banana seedling very carefully and gently, so as not to disturb its roots.

Step 3

Dig a hole in the center of a 4-inch plastic pot that will accommodate the roots of the banana seedling.

Step 4

Set the banana seedling gently into the 4-inch pot. Use the teaspoon to push the potting soil in and around the seedling.

Step 5

Water each of the banana seedlings carefully. Transplant the banana seedlings into larger containers when they are about 3 or 4 inches tall.

HOW TO GROWING ARECANUT FROM SEEDS

HOW  TO  GROWING  ARECANUT  FROM  SEEDS

Plant Characteristics

The arecanut palms grow under a variety of climatic and soil conditions. It grows well from almost sea level up to an altitude of 1000 m in areas of abundant and well-distributed rainfall or under irrigated conditions. It is grown in a variety of soils such as laterites, red loams and alluvial.

Selection Criteria For Planting Materials

 Selection of mother palms
Select mother palms showing earliness and regularity in bearing, high percentage of fruit set and semi-tall to dwarf in stature.

Selection of seed nuts
Select fully tree-ripe nuts from middle bunches during midseason. Discard nuts, which are undersized, malformed and low in weight.

Nursery techniques

Sow selected seed nuts soon after harvest in nursery bed with stalk-end up and with a spacing of 5-6 cm. Cover the seed nuts with sand and irrigate daily.

Transplant 90 day old sprouts having 2-3 leaves to the secondary nursery. Prepare secondary nursery beds of 150 cm width and of convenient length. Apply cattle manure @ 5 t/ha as basal dose. Transplant sprouts at a spacing of 30 x 30 cm. Provide shade by growing banana, Coccinia indica etc or by means of artificial pandal. Plant banana in advance at a spacing of 2.7 x 3.6 m when it is grown as a shade crop. Provide irrigation during hot and dry periods and drainage during monsoon. Periodical weeding and mulching are necessary.

Selection of seedlings

Select good seedlings for transplanting in the main field when they are 12-18 months old. Selection of seedlings can be based on the selection index. Multiplying leaf number by 40 and subtracting the seedling height gives the selection index. Select seedlings with higher selection index values.

Example:

Seedling height = 90 cm, Leaf number = 5.
Selection index (5 x 40)-90 = 110
(If for instance, index values range between 50 and 150, select seedlings with higher values to the extent possible). Remove seedlings with the ball of earth attached to them for transplanting.

Varieties

Mangala, Sumangala, Sreemangala and Mohitnagar.

Seeds And Cultivation

Selection of site
Select sites with deep well drained soil without high water table. Provide adequate irrigation facilities.

Field planting

Plant tall, quick growing shade trees on the southern and western sides of the plantation to provide protection from sun scorching.

Plant seedlings in pits at a spacing of 2.7 m x 2.7 m with north-south alignment, the rows being deflected at an angle of 35º towards west. Dig pits of size 60 x 60 x 60 cm and fill up with rich topsoil to a level of 15 cm from the bottom. Plant seedlings at the centre of pit, cover with soil up to collar level and press around.

The planting is to be done during May-June in well-drained soils and during August-September in clayey soils. Banana may be planted between rows to provide shade in the initial stages up to 4-5 years.

Intercropping and mixed cropping
Crops such as elephant foot yam, pineapple, pepper, betel vine, banana, guinea grass, cocoa, ginger and cardamom can be grown in arecanut gardens. While planting cocoa, a spacing 2.7 x 5.4 m is recommended. In all cases, the intercrops should be manured adequately and separately.

WaterManagement

Irrigate the palms during hot and dry periods at regular intervals of 3-5 days depending upon the soil type.

The palms should be irrigated once in four to seven days depending on the soil type and climatic factors. In west coast, where major area of arecanut gardens are irrigated, watering the garden once in seven or eight days during November-December, once in six days during January-February and once in three to five days during March-April-May is recommended. In each irrigation, give about 175 litres of water per palm. Where there is shortage of water, follow drip irrigation. Application of organic mulch to the garden helps conservation of soil moisture.

Construct drainage channels (25-30 cm deep from the bottom of pits) between the rows and drain out water during periods of heavy rainfall to prevent water logging. 

Nutrient Management

 Apply green leaf and compost, each at the rate of 12 kg per palm per year from first year of planting onwards, during September-October.

Apply N:P2O5:K2O for adult palms @ 100: 40:140 g / palm / year.

Apply 1/3 dose during first year, 2/3 dose during second year and full dose from third year onwards. Under irrigated conditions, apply fertilizers in two split doses, the first during September-October and the second during February. Under rainfed conditions, apply the second dose during March-April after the receipt of summer rains. Apply manures and fertilizers during September-October in circular basins of 15-20 cm depth and with a radius of 0.75-1.0 m from the palm. Apply the second dose of fertilizers around the base of palm after weeding and mix into soil by light forking. In acidic soils, broadcast lime at the rate of 0.5 kg per palm once in two or three years and incorporate into soil by forking during March-April.

Weed Management

Keep the garden free of weeds and break up surface crust by light forking or digging after cessation of monsoon during October-November. In slopes, prevent soil erosion by terracing. Sow seeds of green manure-cum-cover crops such as Mimosa invisa, Stylosanthes gracilis and Calapagonium muconoides in April-May with the onset of pre-monsoon rains. Cut and apply them to the palms in September-October.

Pest Management

Mites
Orange coloured mites can be controlled by spraying the bunches with dimethoate at 0.05 per cent.

Spindle bug (Carvalhoia arecae)

The feeding injury is caused on the lamina and petiole. The affected leaves show dry brown patches.

Spray crowns with carbaryl 50 WP. The spray should reach the leaf axils. Repeat spraying after 30-35 days if pest incidence continues. Placement of 2 g phorate 10G sachets on the top most two leaf axils prevents the pest attack.

Inflorescence caterpillar (Batachedra sp.)
Force open the inflorescence out of the enclosing spathe and spray malathion 50 EC (250 ml in 100 litres of water). Control slugs, which predispose inflorescence to the attack of caterpillar, by using bait of metaldehyde.

Root grub (Leucopholis burmeisteri)
Loosen soil around the base of palms to a depth of 10-15 cm and drench with chlorpyrifos 0.04% suspension twice, one in May just before the onset of southwest monsoon and again in September-October towards the close of the monsoon. Repeat application for 2 or 3 years consecutively to secure a complete eradication of the pest. Root grubs can also be controlled by soil application of phorate 10G around the palms.

Disease Management

Diseases
Koleroga (Mahali or fruit rot) (Phytophthora palmivora)
Spray Bordeaux mixture 1% on all bunches three times in a year, one just before the onset of southwest monsoon and the rest at 40 days intervals. If monsoon season is prolonged give a third spray. Use rosin soda adhesive to ensure tenacity of the spray deposit on treated substrate. Remove and burn all fallen and infected nuts.

Bud rot (Phytophthora palmivora)
Remove and destroy affected spindle and leaves. In early stages of infection, scoop out affected rotten tissues by making longitudinal side splits and apply Bordeaux paste on the exposed healthy tissues or drench crown with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Basal stem rot (Anabe) (Ganoderma lucidum)
1. Isolate affected palms by digging trenches 60 cm deep and 30 cm wide around, one metre away from the base and drench with captan (0.3%), calixin (0.1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%)
2. Remove and destroy all severely affected palms and stumps of dead palms.
3. Drench the soil with 1% Bordeaux mixture before planting healthy seedlings.
4. Discourage growing of collateral hosts of fungus such as Delonix regia and Pongamia glabra in the vicinity of gardens.
5. Apply 2 kg neem cake per palm.
6. Avoid flood irrigation and water flowing from infected palms to healthy palms.

Yellow leaf disease
Maintain the garden properly to keep affected palms in a healthy condition by adopting recommended manurial, cultural, plant protection and other management practices. Improve drainage conditions in the garden.

Disease management

1. Apply the recommended dose of fertilizers.
2. In addition to the above, apply 160 g of rock phosphate per palm in the affected garden.
3. Apply organic manure @ 12 kg each of compost and green leaves per palm per year.
4. Provide irrigation during summer months
5. Avoid water stagnation in the garden by providing drainage facilities.
6. Grow cover crops in the garden.
7. When only a few palms are affected in a garden, remove them to prevent further spread of the disease.
8. Adopt need based plant protection measures against pests and diseases.

Band disease
Improve soil conditions by loosening hard soil strata, if present, by providing good drainage. Adopt adequate control measures against spindle bug, mealy bugs, scales and mites. Where the results of the above treatments are not found satisfactory, apply powdered mixture of copper sulphate and lime in equal quantities @ 225 g/palm twice a year at the base of affected palms. Application of borax @ 25 g/palm has been found to have an ameliorative effect.

Collar rot of seedlings
Improve drainage conditions in nursery beds and gardens. Drench spindle and base of seedlings with 1% Bordeaux mixture in disease affected nursery or garden.

Dieback of inflorescence 
Remove affected inflorescence immediately. Spray zineb (4 g in 1 litre of water) or mancozeb (3 g/l) twice, once just after female flowers are set and again 15-28 days later. Aureofungin sol at 50 ppm concentration is also effective in controlling the disease.

Stem bleeding 
Palms in the age group of 10-15 years are more prone to this disease. Symptoms appear on the basal portion of the stem as small discoloured depression. Later, these spots coalesce and cracks develop on the stem leading to disintegration of the fibrous tissues inside. With the progress of the disease, a brown exudate oozes out from these cracks. High water table predisposes the palm to this disease.
Improvement of drainage and root feeding of 125 ml tridemorph (1.5%) is suggested as control measure against this disease.

Sun scorch
Protect palms from southwest sun by wrapping stems with areca sheath or white-wash the exposed portion. Provide reinforcement to palms showing stem fissures. Grow tall, quick growing trees on southern and western sides of garden.

Nut splitting
This can be considered as a physiological disorder than a disease. Palms in the age group of 10-25 years are more susceptible. Symptoms are premature yellowing of the nuts when they are half to three-fourth mature. Later splits develop at the tips, which extend longitudinally exposing the kernel. Sometimes kernel also show splitting and malformation. Rarely the kernel inside may exhibit splitting without visual symptoms on the husk, resulting in nut fall. Hyper nutrition or sudden flush of water after a period of drought or insufficient moisture in the soil is the probable cause (s) of the disease.

Improvement of drainage in ill drained gardens and spraying of borax @ 2 g/litre of water are found effective in reducing the disease incidence.

Plant Protection

Harvesting

Processing

Post-harvest technology
A simple de-husking device has been standardized by the CPCRI, Kasaragod. The out turn with this device is 60 kg of husked nuts in the case of dry nuts and 30 kg in the case of green nuts. The cost of the device is about Rs 250.